EARLS COURT
11 MARCH 1959
I was in an isolation hospital in Fulham for 6 weeks from November to end Dec /January with what was eventually diagnosed as dermatomyositis. A dreadful experience but as I knew nothing of the NHS and was very ill I was not in a position to judge, only suffer. I then returned to my bedsitter in Earls Court shared with Clare, and once strong enough tried to return to supply teaching. I soon got flu, after which my GP said I must go home, and if I didn’t want to, I must go somewhere with sun. Hence this trip to Switzerland, equipped with no French. My first solo trip into Europe where English is not the first language. MP
.
Mrs A L Povall
Leyds St
12.45pm, 9/8? March 1959
Fri evening, Wengen
Dear Mom,
It was lovely getting your letter on Wednesday when I arrived in Lausanne. I hope Pep sent on my letters quickly so you have been hearing from me. In the last few days so much has happened that I can’t begin to think straight. I’ll write more fully on my travels when not as tired. After 12 hours sleep a night at Chateau d’Oex, I find travelling and not sleeping as much very tiring. I left C.D Oex midday Tuesday, went to see the picturesque village & chateaux of Gruyeres on top of a hill & spent night at Montreux hostel. Wednesday through to Lausanne & saw Etienne in evening & spent night at hostel. Thursday afternoon through to Berne to most luxurious & modern hostel and Friday (today) looked around & left this afternoon for Jolenlahen CHECK and here. Tomorrow to Grindelwald, Lucerne & Zurich & fly home Sunday night or Monday morning at 4.30 from Zurich. There is a flight 11’ish which is respectable but booked out & the next one is Wednesday & I decided I’d better go Sunday or never.
Hostel here not open so staying at chalet. Too lovely. Wooden walls. It’s a restaurant – an old couple and they let rooms but I think I am the only one here. One uses the family bathroom, and its luxury to have god lights in bed, and be able to relax. Its after 10 and I’ve asked her to wake me 8.0 so I’ll go to sleep very soon.
Tomorrow 4 weeks you arrive in London & tonight 4 weeks you’ll be in Zurich. I can’t believe it. You will be in a flap it’s so close. I don’t want you to have to worry about my things but I’m afraid I haven’t been very helpful latterly. Please let me know what of mine is still around – or throw it out, I really don’t mind. Just don’t feel they’re in the way. Also anything I’ve asked you to bring is not important and I don’t want anything to become a THING. If you haven’t room or they’re awkward, just leave them – and I mean this I’m not being self-sacrificing, I really mean it. I do hope the flat gets settled soon and Pop gets organised. I’m afraid I haven’t written to Peter, but left a card I hope June posted. Did the parcel arrive? My letter writings in a shocking state. Please if Shirley phones give her my love and say I will be writing. Tomorrow I see and perhaps pass through Bonigen? or whatever it is called. Snow here is very bad & everything getting green & lovely & the mountains are wonderful. I prefer them to Interlaken and on the lakes. There are no cars here (no road up only rail). Other things I wanted to mention about you but now ‘I can’t think’. I’ll post this on Monday morning , Claire has deposited Peter’s cheque so I’ll have some money on return & I still have traveller’s cheques although I’ve gone wild and could spend fortunes. I feel all springy & think I’ll buy a whole new outfit if I go on feeling like this. Rheumatic aches practically gone although I’m still nosey & a bit wheezy from my cold which doesn’t really worry me. Much love to Pop, Peter, Eileen & to Bev?Bar and to you specially.
Mr & Mrs AL Povall
Leyds St
Tuesday eve
Dear Mom & Pop
Well here I am back in dear old London – cold & chilly as usual. I must still write fully about my last days travelling – so this is just a note to tell you I’ve arrived. I think I last wrote from Weupen? mom. I left the next morning for a trip up to Kleine Scheidegg near Grindelwald, but as it was snowing, raining & misty I saw no wonderful views, mountains etc which one is supposed to. I had an hour in Grindelwald, half an hour in Interlaken (dull & drizzly) and a slow journey to Lucerne along lakes and over the Brunig Pass. All very dull (weather) but saw first wild spring flowers (not many). Just over an hour in Lucerne but didn’t but didn’t see much as tired, raining & couldn’t really find town centre. Then a fast train to Zurich arriving hostel 7sih. Out on town with Gerry (English) & American. Allowed out till 11.30. Up Sunday feeling pretty groggy and wandered around Zurich (lovely town) & to Art Gallery (fabulous) & to see “Horse’s Mouth” with Alec Guinness. Back to hostel with Gerry to have potatoes & soup (all food we had) and Gerry got 9.45 train. I sat in Swissair departure office at station from 10-2.30. Some slept. I didn’t. 3.0 arrived airport to hear plane diverted to Geneva as misty at Zurich. At 4.0 they decided to pack us on train to Geneva. So 4.45 on the train. Feeling sick from hunger & tiredness by this time. Had Continental breakfast at 5.0, then dozed for about three quarters of an hour altogether & arrived Geneva 9ish. To airport & plane took off 9.30, and landed London airport 10.30, & home by 12.0. By this time feeling not so bad, Bought two chops, grilled them, phoned Claire, washed clothes & slept from 2-6 when she came home. Then feeling quite mad decided to go with her and a chap she’d met and his friend to a nightclub. We met them at 10. Mine turned out to be 40ish & a very famous surgeon (except I didn’t know his name) we were taken to the Astor (it only starts at 11.0) where Princess Margaret goes. Enjoyed evening very much – lovely wine, food mediocre. Decided to not go to work (after all what is £2/10/-) Got home 3.30ish & to bed 4.30ish. Slept till 10.30 when Gerrie Schiller? came (back from Birmingham) and then again from 12-5 dead. Now I’m sleepy again – will wash some clothes & the dishes and go to bed. I should feel fine then tomorrow to face the brutes.
I enjoyed my holiday terrifically and really feel better. I think if my cold finally cleared up I’ll feel fine. Weather here is back to dullness – so depressing to step off the plane) but not really cold – perhaps spring really is round the corner.
Thanks for letter today mom. Peter’s birthday. So glad he made a sale. When do they leave. I must write to him. A- Helen has offered me money (I got the letter in Zurich). Isn’t she sweet. Peg’s away this week, I don’t know where. Hope the flat gets let soon. Terribly disturbing not knowing quite what’s happened. Glad Ricky? will have someone nice to go to. Lovely photos when I returned from Isobel & Marlene of the kids…
Must go to sleep now – got clothes and I ready for tomorrow. Hope I’ll get a job now that the flu is over. It would be nice if I could get a more long-term for the next few weeks. I may perhaps work at Lyons for the week before you arrive mom if they’ll have me – must try and get something for the time to keep me going but don’t know who would take me just for the week. Oh for lots of money to go travelling again. Pity the trip’s booked up. Perhaps you can still organise something to go on your own, on another trip. There are heaps of travel people organising things here, mom. What plans Pop, or are you waiting to see about flat. Please give love to Peter, Bar and Eileen. Very behind in correspondence again, do don’t know when I’ll write. Much love to you both, Margary.
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Mrs and Mrs A L Povall
Leyds St
Great Yarmouth 25 FEB 1959
Dear Mom & Pop,
Can’t remember when last I wrote, but a brief resume of news first. Decided to go back and teach till I left for Switzerland, but Wednesday no luck as half term and only 20 out of 200 schools back. Thursday & Friday to a girls school near Notting Hill Gate where the kids were fine. Everything a mad rush at the end to get ready although I hadn’t planned it to be at all.
Thursday evening Claire & June started outfitting me in case I need something for evening in a hotel. June lent me a very fitted royal blue cotton permanent pleated skirt & Claire a whiteish nylon cardigan which has to be sewn up again. Then to Pegs to collect a case and not be bed as early as planned.
Friday Peg came round 7ish after hairdressers & mended & packed as I bathed and flapped. I was just exhausted, June thrilled to bits. June and Claire came to see me off at air terminal near us where we had to be at 9.45. I got scared – and offered to let June go instead. Letter from Eloise CHECK ?? brother) about where to meet him hadn’t arrived, so no plans & not even sure whether I’d got hold of him. At Air Terminal German chap who was overweight asked if we could swap cases (I was under) so this we did and just in nick in time discovered he was flying Swiss air and me BEA, so watched by very suspicious official we hurriedly changed back labels to our own. Huge group of Air Rangersr, and about 14 going skiing at Zermatt, and other odds and ends. Coached by June and Claire I eyed every hopeful male/which made 2 and finally left in bus for airport after 10.0 ??? was picked up by lone male and sat next to him, so June’s hints not needed. London Airport fabulous & gigantic (you get in bus from building to plane miles out on runway). Viking very nice, seats 2 on one side, 2 on other. Clear night amazingly, could even see stars. No trouble with customs etc. Took off 11.05, advanced watches an hour so flight less than 2 hours, as arrived before 2.0. Uneventful flight, saw few of London’s lights but as not next to window, & rather over wing, a bit difficult. Also saw a bit of snow on mountains, but missed Paris, as it was on other side. were served coffee, sandwiches & biscuits. I talked to Alan executive at Liverpool University over for conference in Geneva on making an electronic computer. Interesting but not very inspiring. He too had no definite plans so we decided to spend rest of night at airport rather than waste money on hotel. At Geneva got note from Pegs friend Rene Shubert, to who she’d written saying he’d booked hotel for me, but didn’t take it. Everyone else left in bus for Geneva, we sat in lounge drinking chocolate. At 5ish lay down on couches and dozed a bit but lights switched on again at 5.30 so about 10 mins sleep. At 8.0 got bus in to city. There I phoned Rene to explain and heard he’d booked me at a pension for two weeks there. Told him Etienne[the brother of a SA friend who I had never met] was organising something but felt rotten bad about it. Had breakfast of rolls and coffee at station and caught 9.25 train to Lausanne, arriving 11ish. Had Etienne’s work number so phoned to be told he was at station waiting for me. Then proceeded to eye every man there till I was being eyed in return. Phoned office again & had very odd conversation with 3 people who hadn’t much English . Miraculously Etienne walked into office as I talked, so came to fetch Alan & self in a few minutes at station, this time knowing where I was & what wearing.
To get to Lausanne we travelled around the lake. Swiss trains wooden seats 2nd class but moves fast and efficiently & very very warm. With warm sun as well, fell asleep quite often. Windows very dirty so couldn’t see mountains on other side. Everything very neat, weeded & houses with big gardens. Lausanne old and not very big, rather relaxing. After lunch (I had smoked trout & salad – wonderful) the 3 of us walked along lake, saw big hotels, & had coffee on pavement. Clear air & although cloudy, inbetween really blue sky and warmer than London. No snow around. Etienne suggested I try Denises idea of Chateau D’Oex in mountains beyond Montreux so Alan and I got 3.30 train. All this area is French speaking & I just let Etienne and Alan cope with planning, buy me stamps, ordering etc. Most people know some English, but I don’t fancy being alone & having to start every conversation pathetically “Parlez – vous Anglais?” Etienne extremely helpful and nice. Offered me his flat if I don’t like it here & he’ll go to stay with friends.
Sun Eve
We changed at Montreux onto mountain train (the first one was through to Milan), had a hurried walk with into the town a bit – unfortunately all Swiss towns seem to be on a slopes (a la Mossel Bay). Wound round & round & up past Vevey (where Charlie Chaplin lives & Pierrette stayed), through tunnels, each time landing up higher above Montreux. At first every inch cultivated and contoured. Rows of sticks sticking in the air – for grapes I suppose. Then as we went further into mountains snow more frequent and wilder countryside, less villages and more space between. Eventually opened out into the valley in which Chatleau D’Oex & further on Gstaad are. The village is on a slope but not so crowded or steep. Thick snow around where it hadn’t been walked down to slush. Found a cheap hotel (10/- for night) early. Prices ???? till average at about £1 for b&b by adding a breakfast (rolls and coffee) at ¾ service and heating charged but opposite my room is a bathroom unlocked which I have made use of twice, we washed – absolutely filthy and had a look round. Amazingly not cold, had ??? and coat on but hands weren’t cold without gloves, in London one freezes without them. Alan stood me supper at nice place – ham omelette, red & white wine & coffee, then up the hill again and to bed after washing clothes and bathing. Hotel’s much too warm inside – just shed clothing. My room big & comfy with basin, & overlooking main street and village square. Opened double windows to cool room a bit. Perhaps baths free in winter when heating is on anyway. My bed has one blanket, and of course a duvet (very light eiderdown). Kicked off bed socks as too hot & in morning all clothes dry (in London brushed nylon pants take plus minus 4 days) here 12 hours.
I slept through till 9.20 when Alan woke me, and could have gone on forever. It was still snowing a bit, had a lot during night but not heavy but everything white. By end of day much had melted again. Maybe it snows every night. Everyone had wonderful ??? – pink and brown faces.
I’m sending this up to Peg to read & send on. They have no letters or cards here so this seems a god scheme, serving a double purpose. Sorry for long gap in letters! Hope you’ve realised why.
Much love to you both and rest of family, Margery. {Don’t bring iron Mom}
CHELSEA
4 March, 1959
Chateau D’Oex
Fri Eve
Dear family,
I’m sitting in the kitchen because the light in my room is very bad, & am surrounded by school boys washing and drying up and chattering so excuse any mistakes. I wish I understood a little more because I’m not quite sure whether they’re making rude remarks or not.
They no longer regard me as being from another planet, but our conversation is rather limited to “Bon soi” & “Good evening” with some bright boys counting up to 6 in English just to show me they have English. I have got the stage where I find myself having conversations with myself in English with a French accent. It’s a little difficult to be friendly when one is limited to smiling and Bon Soirs, but when I meet them out in the village I get greeted with Good mornings in the afternoon etc & conversation often revolves around “Mademoiselle” who unhappily non comprez. The teachers who have got some English seem either shy of me, or of their English , and so contact is limited. I understand more of what’s going on around me, but haven’t got any further with talking myself. My method with shopping now is to point – it’s a lot easier.
The weather is still fantastic, and I’m doing my best to acquire a tan but so far seem only to have achieved freckles. About 10ish or 11ish I go out either down to the river or overlooking it, and sit and read etc or walk around till 3ish when I shop. I consume vast quantities of Swiss chocolate making the excuse that I want to find out which are the best. I finished the book I brought with me, bought another 2/6 Penguin for plus minus 4/- at the local bookshop out of their stock of plus minus 20 English books and finished it last night. I phoned Etienne to ask him to send me some. I’m certainly being lazy. Even letter writing becomes a bind, and I sleep a lot.
Yesterday morning I got hot water from the kitchen and washed myself and clothes and then the warden by signs and words told me I could hang my washing from her balcony so it was dry by morning.
Sat midday
I’m sitting in the boiling sun on top of the mountain outside Sanner Moser?. AT 8.30 (ghastly hour) Dulcie Proctor Pegs friend phoned me. I’d sent her a card. She and someone else from the school were going skiing and she suggested I came too, so she waves a hanky out of the train & in I climbed. Its about half an hour from Chateau D’Oex past Gstaad the fashionable place (Aga Khan there at the moment). Apparently this year is very bad for skiing – too much sun and hardly any snow falls. We came up here on a funicular if that’s what something is that stays on the ground. Up here there are more wonderful views – drops down on either side and mountains further over. I’ve got slacks and tights, jersey on and I long to get into a bathing costume. Again not a cloud in the sky and snow all around – ski runs wherever you look. I really got inspired but what with the expense of hiring things, having lessons and getting up the ski lifts and the lack of time its really not worth it.
My school boys left today so last night they put on an entertainment to which I was invited. A new numbers on a guitar, some magic and games and references to me in something were the order of the day. Unfortunately all I understood was “Mademoiselle” & Anglais. At the end we all had custard and biscuits. The one older teacher chatted to me and translated some of the things. The night before they apparently went out for a fondue and he said I should have come (a day late!) I think I’ll be alone in the hostel now unless another party arrives.
We’re in the German area now which is all rather confusing, just when I was beginning to understand a little French. Anyway coffee seems to be almost the same most places so I won’t starve. Thanks for letter. Mom yours of Wed via Claire and Ettienne arrived Tuesday, Saturday one via Ettiene arrived Wednesday. Peters and the cheque also Wed. I’ve sent it to Claire to deposit. Many thanks, love M
CHELSEA 4 March 1959
Chateux D’ Oex
Lunchtime Monday
Dear Family,
I’m standing myself to a lunch of cold meat and salads having decided I can’t live my whole life on chocolate, bread and cheese which I seem to be doing with eggs and fruit thrown in occasionally. The sky is a bit cloudy today as it was yesterday, but there’s boiling sun here as usual. I am on the terrace of the station hotel and as usual much too hot.
On Saturday on the way back from Sarnen Mosen? I stopped at Gstaad to shop for groceries as I thought the shops here would be closed when I returned. It’s a very attractive place but horribly touristy. More Americans to be heard than Swiss. It’s one of the society places & ??? for society.
There’s a fantastic 7 storey hotel on top of the hill which looks like a castle. At the station are horse drawn carriages to take people to the hotel. When its very cold and snowy apparently, they use horse drawn sleighs. Wonderful pastry shops and tearooms and grocery shops (the one I went into had automatic doors that opened as you approached. I was there as everyone was promenading after skiing and the streets were full of glamorous women and huge American cars and Mercedes. I caught the same train home as Dulcie, after 6.0 & after buying a huge bottle of non-alcoholic apple juice (delicious) went home.
There I found an English girl from Geneva where she is a children’s nanny. She had a weekend off so had come up here. It was very nice as otherwise the hostel was empty, the boys having left in the morning. After cooking supper were went to bed and both slept about 12 hours.
Susan was keen on going to Gstaad so I went with her on my abonnement , a cheap ticket which Dulcie had told me to get enabling you to travel all this area. We eventually got a train at 12.0 and after having a look round the town which was much nicer when almost empty, we looked for somewhere to sit in the sun. Susan had her skates, but the rink was wasn’t open as it was too hot. We climbed up a hill overlooking the town where very posh chateaus are – one with a Union Jack flying. It wasn’t very sunny as there were actually clouds I the sky! After a while we heard a loudspeaker and wandered over the hill and found a crowd watching what we eventually realised was an exhibition by avalanche dogs of how they rescue people. They were big black ones with longish hair (Alsatians?). The sloping hillside which was in shade and so still covered with snow had been dug up and people got themselves buried in little shelters, after which the dogs were let loose to find them. Once they got the scent they .. madly & then a man came to assist them. We wandered down to the town after this which was again alive with huge cars and people and had coffee and bought some pastries at the shop and got the 5.30 train back. Susan went straight on to Geneva, I walked down to the hostel and to bed pretty soon to read etc. All alone!
This morning I washed self and clothes and then went to bank to change money & up the little hill where the church is. I sat in the sun outside then had a look at the church. Lovely wooden roof. So much is all wood here.
I’m developing more freckles than I’ve ever had before I’m sure – perhaps because I’m unused to sun. I see no sign of a lovely tan like everyone else has.
I think I’ll leave here tomorrow and make my way down to Montreux, branching off halfway to see the village of Gruyere (where the cheese comes from), which Dulcie says is lovely. There’s a hostel at Montreux where I could spend the night, then on to Lausanne & up Interlaken, Grindelwald’s way.
I’ve decided to fly back to Zurich & feel I should try and get on Sunday’s plane otherwise I’ll never go. Temperatures at the moment are high in London but all the same I don’t fancy returning. The next plane from Zurich arriving before midnight is Wednesday so if Sunday is booked up perhaps I’ll stay the extra days, only…