NEXT LETTER ABOUT TRAVELS – IN 1960?. It seems I had probably been to Paris twice by then – once with my mother, and once with Janet. MP
CLAIRE AND I FLEW OVER THE CHANNEL TO Beauvais AND THEN ON TO THE LOIRE VALLEY WHERE WE HITCHED
……… Mr & Mrs A.L Povall
502 Rowallan
Noord Street
Johannesburg
South Africa
From M Povall, 43 Philbeach Gardens, London SW5
Tours Wed 30th March
Dear Family,
Well here Claire & I in the Loire valley – better start from the beginning.
Saturday No early morning flights till the 1st April when prices drop, so we got the 10.0am one all respectably. Claire had worked till midnight the night before. I had got back from B’ham on Thursday night so had more time to organise. In the morning I made sandwiches, got stores of butter, sugar etc together, Rhonwyn came round to lend us some books, & we were off to Victoria Coach Station. Not as nightmarish a journey as last time when Janet and I left at 5.0, and I hadn’t slept all night. A very smooth flight through cloud all the way so we saw nothing, and were greeted by slight rain at Beauvais – a change as we seem to have had dry weather in England lately.
On arrival in Paris at 5.0 (clocks put forward an hour) we went straight to the Gare d’ Austerlitz, only to find that we could only get to Tours (the nearest open youth hostel) by about 10 that night. We had a sweet little man who spoke excellent English helping us and he phoned a friend of his who had a hotel, and we spent the night in Paris. A wonderful hotel – bed and breakfast less than 10/- each a night. We shared a bed but had the usual washing facilities etc next door in a little room.
Spotless, and very nice people running it. Nicer than our St Lazare place, mom. In case anyone wants it – it’s the Hotel BEAUVOIR, Ave de L’Observatoire, at the corner of Boulevard St Michael and Boul Montparnasse, and the proprietor’s name is DELATTRE. Really a find!
After a good wash we went out to eat & found a cheapish (over 10/-) place – Russian (fitting with Khrushchev in France!) where we ate pretty well, and Claire picked up a man – photographer with Paris Match, and not much English, who took us to a small, very nice sort of nightclub a friend of his runs, and gave us champagne! Such luxury! At about 1 or so he drove us home, and did we both sleep soundly!!!
Sunday Breakfast at 9.0 & a train at 11.50 for Tours, stopping off at Blois on the way for a hurried look at the Chateau – the usual guide – French, but speaking English. Unfortunately his English was so bad, that we couldn’t believe it was English most of the time. All I caught were references to Francois Premier & his son Henri Deux and Henri Trois & the Duc de Guise and Catherine de Medici, but except for a dramatic account of the murder of the Duc de Guise & his brother Cardinal some one or other, I’m none the wiser. Our 2 hour stay was soon over, & with 2 little French army boys carrying our cases, we dashed for the station, & on to Tours. A very badly bombed town I would say from the number of new buildings around. It is on the banks of the Loire, and the Cher a tributary of the Loire on which many of the Chateaux are runs nearby. We wandered round the town, & eventually in halting French found in which direction the Hostel was. Claire has to be the spokeswoman as she learnt French at school, and I prompt with words from my quite surprisingly large vocabulary. We eventually caught a bus out to the Hostel which is a chateau – all very exciting. Huge grounds – woods & parkland – obviously public property with playing fields around. More of that later.
Tuesday 19th April
An attempt to continue the account of my French holiday. Sitting at dinner in Farringdon in Wilts. I’d got us as far as the chateau, in solitude, and with the most primitive toilet arrangements in the cellars & us on the 1st floor.
We felt, to say the least, a little weird, cooking our meals in the gigantic kitchen, & washing in cold water near the smelly toilets, & then upstairs again & to bed. We felt sure, as we were in a strange place we would wake up in the night & want to go downstairs, & even though we promised to wake each other up should this be necessary, we still couldn’t bear the thought of the pitch blackness, so amidst much mirth we looked around for suitable articles to use as “potties”. We discarded the huge rubbish bins as being a little obvious, also the saucepans from the hygiene point of view, & finally swiped the bottoms of a few of the wardens pot plants on the terrace – porous of course but at least of some use. Luckily the warden spoke no English so couldn’t ask us what we thought we were doing keeping flower pot bases under our beds. Luckily we slept very well, & neither had need of them.
Monday
We slept very late by Y.H. standards, but weren’t disturbed, and by about 12 had had a good wash in the kitchen (in saucepans in which we heated water) & some breakfast & set off to walk into the town. We ended up wandering the whole day – in & out of shops, eating pastries, just meandering. We didn’t ever get to the Cathedral, but did find the river – beautiful with soft shadings in the water & growth on the bank.
Around 5.30 we discovered a dream of a café – a magnificent meal served all inclusive of bread, wine & service for F375 (compare with 600F in Paris, mom). It was peasanty & we were the only women there, but it had a lovely atmosphere , the owner was like a mother of a huge family – each man being given a huge plate of soup as he came in, and hors oeuvres and steak & potatoes, and salad and cheese and a sweet. About 7 courses. We were served early – the place only opened at 2.0 really, but in spite of lack of common language, we were obviously part of “the family” to be fed and looked after. We sat for hours, watching TV & relaxing, then finally trailed back into town to find the last bus for the Chateau had left, so a long long walk out of town. It had rained on and off all day, so we were pretty exhausted & dampish on our return.
We found the place invaded – by 2 men! Both bearded – one Canadian Mort, one American GI ) both back from months in Spain. We chatted a bit then retired to bed.
Tuesday
We couldn’t have a really good wash in the kitchen because the males might appear so not again till Paris did we really wash.
I wasn’t feeling too good, but as it seemed to be drying & sunny we all went and sat in the surrounding woods. The rain started, so we all went in for a late lunch. Claire and Jim had taken Morts car to go and buy food, but the shops were all closed till 3.0 so we managed on the tins we had, and Jim and I went shopping later.
We collected wood and made a huge fire in the huger fireplace in the kitchen – most welcome, only I had tummy ache & retired to bed & to be sick in the aforementioned flower pot bases. Claire & Jim sat up till all hours drinking wine.
Wednesday
The men had been going to leave, but didn’t. We wrote letters/or rather made a vague attempt and then as the weather improved, Mort and I went for a long walk through the woods & into the little village with grey and orange houses (remember Chartres mom? – so typical of towns and villages – the grey slate roofs & so often orange brick houses).
Once again a late lunch, and in the woods in the early evening – a bit chilly but beautiful. And then our peace was invaded – by a whole crowd of hikers, car travellers etc – mainly female – German, French, Australian, American and we were all furious, & most unwelcoming as we regarded the chateau as ours and were the wardens friends and the Alsatian dogs too. So we lit our fire again, & gradually everyone else retired to be bed (did they feel unwelcome?) & we had peace again, & another not very early night, especially Claire & Jim.
Thursday
We all moved on, Mort to London, Jim to Paris, and Claire & I to see the other Chateaus. Weather rather doubtful – a bit rainy, but not too bad after all. Claire & I decided to hitch (plus our little suitcases) but felt rather strange – Claire never having done so, & me no great hand at it. However our first lift with a little man in a Dauphine, turned out to be our only one. He must have been a traveller & luckily had no English, but a very kind heart, and took us chateauing till we had had all chateaus. He would drop us off for an hour or two, or half an hour, & pitch up to cart us off to the next chateau – the only thing in common we had to talk about. We had decided to spend the night at Chinon, a gorgeous little town with an old fortress like chateau high on the hill overlooking the river, but by 2.0 we had “done” Chinon (not having seen the chateau at all – food being much more important, & there not being time for both. We told him it was “Tres interessant” & were whisked off to Azay-le-Rideau – a gorgeous little chateau, ruined by a French speaking guide, and English translations clutched ?our hands. If only we could have wandered at will, but that was never allowed. A dash back to the car & another chateau – Langeais – rather nice & old – and a French commentary & English translations clutched in hand. Then a dash to buy Claire a pair of flatties, and on to yet another chateau – I can’t remember its name, we were left for half an hour & didn’t even attempt to go in, but sat in the sun on the grass – as it really didn’t look interesting. When he appeared Claire explained vaguely there hadn’t been time to see much as there was no guide there right then, but we felt a bit bad about letting our little man down.
By this stage we realised we were almost back at Tours – not at all what we wanted but we were dropped off at the gate, & offered many thanks to our little man.
There were heaps of people at the hostel, but we were greeted as old friends by the warden & wife who thought it was very funny we were back. We ignored the rush and went out to eat in the village – not cheap, and crawled into bed at a reasonable hour exhausted.
The warden really was sweet – for 2 days his wife presented us with huge jugs of milk – heavens knows where from, & one wished one could have chatted.
Friday We were making for Paris, but I had to see Chenonceau, the chateau built across the river, so we hitched & waited & waited and hitched, not doing at all well, till a chap also in a Dauphine picked us up – once again no English thank goodness, but a very kind heart who took us to lunch with lots of wine, and into Chenonceau /he paid our entrance. By this stage even I was talking French (the odd 2 or 3 words) & much passing backwards and forwards of the dictionary went on. He was a traveller for Renault, and really was wonderful. He didn’t seem to reckon we’d make Paris that night, but grabbed a chap in a cheap Citroen to take us a bit of the way, & and then after a bit of a walk, another chap who did speak English made room for us, & then hailed a new Citroen when he had to leave us at Orleans, & we had a wonderful trip back to Paris with a silent driver in a gorgeous car overtaking everything.
It was dark, & we were really tired when we arrived at the hotel (We’d written a letter (in French of course) earlier in the week saying we’d be returning). The hotel owner thought it was a very nice letter!
A thorough wash of self & clothes – wonderful! And then a meal at the self service up Boulevard St Michel, & bed. Claire hardly slept as I bashed her all night apparently.
Saturday To American Express to collect mail, & the large shop to look around & buy perfume – the only cheap thing! Then back to the hotel & out again for a long walk along the river, to St Germaine de Pres & back to St Michel for a self-service meal, where Claire got talking to a Lebanese , who had a friend. We ended up having coffee with them, & back to their rooms for arack (pure alcohol I should say!) and pistachio nuts. I’d had enough after a while and walked home, to be joined later by Claire.
Sunday
We packed everything & took luggage to Air Terminal, and then made for Notre Dame in the wind & rain. A service was on, with those dreadful begging nuns at the door, & coach parties arriving, we only saw the end, so no exciting singing.
We climbed a tower – rather dull view because of mist & cloud & cold & windy & wet, but lovely as ever. I’m quite an expert now & can point out most landmarks. Then a bus along the river to Champs Elysee, and a hunt for the self service Janet and I found but no luck. Still we found another, and had our last French meal.
Then a frantic dash back to the Air Terminal. The coach left at 3.15, & we were supposed to report by 3.0. At 3.15, after changing buses, being rather too far, waiting for buses, we made an undignified dash for the coach, which moved off as soon as we had got on. We never knew if we had anyone bidding us a fond farewell or not, as we had not time and just as well – we really looked scruffy and wet & windswept. Everyone else looked cool, calm & collected & elegant.
An uneventful trip back, to land in England in the later afternoon to sunshine. Extraordinary! England in the spring is so lovely – the lambs, lovely gardens & flowers were so welcoming as was our room which we’d managed to leave in a reasonable state.
I’m sending this to Peg to ask her to forward. Please mom, could you let Janet have this afterwards & me back sometime. I must still try and write some of the other happenings in my life but its 11.0 now & bed time, so maybe some other evening, I might have a chance to write a really decent letter.
Yesterday & today were both gorgeous days and its been lovely to be in the country – yesterday in Shere, and today by car to Thame near Oxford /and ? near Swindon. Tomorrow I move on towards Nether Wallop in Hampshire to see Gallup Poll supervisor – a real joy ride. Love to you all, M
Sunday
On the bus on the way home – excuse writing. The sun is actually shining in England & it was dull and dripping in France. Amazing. England is lovely in sunshine – what a pity there can’t be more.
Got your letter in Paris mom – thrilled about the flat, but what a rush for you. Hope the move hasn’t knocked you both out completely and thanks for getting the books over.
We’ve been in Paris since Friday eve. Had a lovely holiday – not nearly as restful as planned – no books read or letters written but great fun, & we’ve seen enough chateaux for a long long time. Hope to write the rest later. I’m giving this to Peg to read & send on.
Much love to you all, Margie
I’m spending too much money on nothing. Much love to you all. I hope you’ve had luck with the flat.