SICILY – May 2017
Mon May 1st
An excellent start. Gatwick a wonder. We were of course Walked for miles, but also helped, welcomed and were through security almost before we knew. So airports do not Have to be nightmares. Choosing Pret to pick up our lunch another positive. Displays of delicious looking sandwiches and salads [almost all vegetarian, and fruit juices. A tiny display of hot food – the usual fried and high calorie. And the food tasted delicious too.
The plane full, and Catania airport surprisingly busy. Coach to hotel in centre of Acireale. Our guide Gian Carlo told us as it was Monday night there would be little open etc. But he had forgotten it was the 3rd day of carnival and the whole town was out to see the huge floats. How restrained and well behaved everyone was – simply looking. So then dinner outside in a small place with limited options which we pointed to. A mixed platter of little snacks – moderately interesting – and a glass of wine and bed.
Tues 2nd
Early start unfortunately. In coach by 8.30? because we had to get to Linguaglossa to catch the train up Etna to Randazzo. Beautiful Judas trees flowering in the street around the hotel, even managing it surrounded by building and scaffolding.
Etna at first had a Table Mountain kind of table cloth. Then almost clear, and round the north where we ended up stripes of snow near the top. Huge plant nursery area at first – soil very fertile – lots of busy small producers. Beautiful strawberries in the food/veggie shop near the station. Tasted as good as they looked. Tempted by beautiful artichokes, broad beans, aubergines etc but no possibility of cooking them.
A walk round the town with too much talk [our guide is VERY knowledgeable and want s to impart the whole lot]. So past 3 churches in detail but no chance to get inside, and even hardly time for the promised break for cappuccino. The town full ot groups of young people – teenagers, teenies etc. And on the train a few people with rucksacks looking as though they planned to climb higher The town largely destroyed by lava [but when I cant remember – 1928?] so rebuilt in the baroque style. Back on the train down to Linguaglossa and to a wine producer for a tour and snack lunch. Again, swamped with the info I now deduce that they don’t grow but probably process others grapes A new venture – they used to do fortified wines. Etna has its own DOC.We all voted their white the best and excellent and I bought a bottle – but Sicily still has corks so who can I get to open it. – not tactful to do it at the hotel which has its own wines. The snacks v nice meat, cheese and bread, and most tasty veg which must be capanata – with all sorts of differnet identifiable veggies. I must make some at home – so easy I am sure, and a good way to use up all the veg I buy at the Brixton Farmers market. Will have to supplement with Sainsburys olives, and [until the summer] aubergine
The country side around everywhere full of heaps of black lava, and we passed one place where the whole town was wiped out, but because the lava moves slowly they all got out with their possessions. It seems a strange precarious life, but I suppose it is home and where else would people move to? By the way no sign of postcards anywhere – we have to send Rhonwyn one of Etna, but..? Somehow I can see I am not going to get round to others, but must get some of this off, minus photos of course.
From the wine tasting lunch Ithink we were taken straight back to Acireale to crawl thank fully on our beds. Then later, recovered we walked past endless clothes shops in search of somewhere to eat. Acireale is obviously not a tourist destination, and we ended up at a ‘trendy’ place called TIME with staff with no English or ability to explain what their limited food was. We ended up with pasta, and an overpriced bottle of good Nero dAvila [cheaper than getting 3 glasses] so we carried the rest home to be drunk the next evening in the garden where we are now near Noto.
Day 3 – a later start thank heavens as I think we are all feeling exhausted. 21 of us, and mainly older. But relentless info and travel to a beautiful olive and almond farm from which one can see Noto. I think but am not sure that we were brought straight here. No we cant have been because we only got here in the afternoon. Ah now I remember – this was our Baroque day. We started with a walking tour of Acireale and 3 Baroque churches with different features. The sad thing about this overload of info is that I have learned little. Sicily is complex I knew before I came, and now I still know. One useful fact which I had not registered before is that Baroque developed at a time of great change round Europe – Luther etc etc. The problem with the art history I was taught was that it wasn’t linked to other developments e.g. political, economic and in music. Only now do I start piecing things together a bit.
At last we were given a little freedom just near streets with local shops and markets. So we ended up sitting on church steps eating bread, bits of pizza and a revolting looking mixture of baked aubergine and peppers. Luckily the streets were fairly quiet, and afterwards we found a café to have coffee and wash our hands.
So into the coach to here, Villa Favorita. A lovely spot and buildings. But only time to lie on our beds briefly because we had to be taken down for a walk round Noto. It is where the exterior Montalbano shots were taken and is a UNESCO world heritage site. And because of this the authorities have done it up – this after the dome of the cathedral collapsed, luckily not killing anyone. The main street is pedestrianised and the town is beautiful warm golden Baroque. Then up to a palazzo which was sold to the state a few years ago when the elderly owner died with no children. It is looked after by a couple and a very bright little boy with some English who are part of the family – not the rich part I would deduce. Not too over the top decoration but must have had great affluence. The area full of these huge places – from a feudal society? Walk down collecting nuts and little almond cookies for snack. Back here we took our half bottle of wine, and almonds out into the garden outside Shirleys room and had a lovely evening drink. In to have a light starter supper – mine very interesting smoked tuna and melon. Then back to the garden to have our strawberries and almond cookies, and to bed.
DAY 4 – perhaps not a surprise to hear that I opted out today. Have spent the day sleeping on my bed, dozing outside near the swimming pool . eating no lunch, just ordering a freshly squeezed orange juice. And missing out on a visit to a roman site, a lunch at a vineyard, and walk in a nature reserve. Tonight we are given dinner here, and then tomorrow onward – partly to Montalbano’s apartment at the sea, and no doubt much much more information. But back here in the evening. It really is lovely.