TRAVEL 1958 IN UK
I planned to get a supply teaching job which one could get if one had a degree. It had the advantage of giving one freedom to take off and travel, whilst also paying the amazing rate of almost £3 per day. As it was school holidays I decided to hitch up to Scotland. At the Overseas Visitors Club was a notice from a woman wanting to do the same. So this ill matched pair took off together.Her name appears in various forms because Sue was not sure of my writing. I think she was Elsine, but cant be sure. Without a proper map we took the underground to the station which appeared to be the most northern [ probably the Piccadilly], and arrived in outer London suburbia.
Many things strike me reading this in 2017. One was that people nowadays say ‘how brave’, you couldn’t do this today’. Emotionally I reject this. I certainly would not do so today. But that is not because of fear but because Im not fit enough, and have enough money to travel by other means.I think the problem nowadays is FEAR, grown worse these days with THE FEAR OF THE OTHER. The tabloids base their circulation rise on this. And we all buy in to it in some way. We are told so much more about assaults, rapes etc that many restrict themselves [including myself at times], I think unnecessarily . One must take precautions, and not court unwelcome attention, but are people really all that more violent than they were? My very first hitch hiking ride could have sent me home if I had been really fearful. As the two of us were squeezed into this little van, and he stopped to let us off, he tried to hold and kiss me. Whilst Elise was getting out expressing endless ‘thank yous’ because she didn’t see what was going on, I was determinedly pushing him off. And on we went undeterred. And by the end of the Scottish trip I was so tired of endless disagreements with my travelling companion I was quite prepared to hitch back to London on my own.
The following are airletters to my parents [I knew my mother would be interested, and would pass them on – overseas travel then was not yet routine, and held many unknown excitements] . Susan Miller sorted out and typed up as best she could. I have done a minimal editing and sorting hence the somewhat disjointed story, and haven’t even tried to correct some place names..
I found the letters recently in an envelope. I had asked my mother to keep them for me in case I wanted them later – for reference?
With all these letters what strikes me also is my endless energy – or was it determination to experience even when physically I should have stopped? Was it this that resulted in my 6 nightmare weeks in an isolation hospital in London in November/December?
Oh and the clothing. Still wearing skirts and dresses and shoes with heels, and even a mention of a petticoat somewhere.
Oh and the postal service – various mentions of getting letters etc as one travelled! Almost unimaginable now. – the good old days?
Edinburgh 7 pm, 29 Aug 1958
To Mrs A L Povall
Leyds St
Johannesburg, South Africa
From: M Povall, 59 Warwick Road, London SW5
Edinburgh Youth Hostel, Thurs night
Hello, Just when there’s so much to tell, there’s no time or chance – so this’ll have to do be brief resume & maybe later I’ll be able to fill in. Better diarise!
Tues 26th Left London 9ish. Took tube to High Barnet & by series of about 6 lifts got up to Lichfield that night via Kettering, Coventry etc. Some trucks, some cars. 1st chap in van grabbed me and tried to kiss me. I struggled and gave him hell. A doubtful start! Since then no trouble at all. No rain that day – sun sometimes. No waiting for lifts – usually didn’t even have to hitch. 5 minutes was a long time. Got taken to coffee by one French driver who’d been to SA during war/ as have most of our drivers – must have been terrific traffic through CT. Arrived at hostel on main road 6ish. Walked into town to see Cathedral, back for hostel dinner 7.30 (soup, rather starchful main course, sweets & tea all for 2/6). Small hostel, no hot water, only about 15 there, mostly school kids cycling. Heaps of them everywhere. To bed 10.30 (lights out)
Fri morn – sitting in sun in castle courtyard
A most heavenly day – not even wearing jersey. Sun shining, clear – glorious. Haven’t had a day like it for ages and ages. We’ve been wonderfully lucky with weather. Breeze blowing up here – gorgeous view all round over to ships up river? Edinburgh on a day like this wonderful. Quaint lanes, passages, steep steps down alleys to tea rooms. I think every corner has been used to open a tea room & sell souvenirs. The Scots cash in on the Festival! But they’re lovely people – friendly & helpful. Only official Festival bookings office etc and so well organised. For instance we were told there were no cheap tickets left for anything & we felt desperate. Woman at booking office said if we queued from lunchtime or so, if we were very lucky we’d get perhaps standing room for the one hall where concerts are held. When we went in later to town we found all the places seemed to have unreserved tickets, & we got into a concert as it started and sat on the stairs (no standing at all).
We feel really smart here – in stockings, earrings, skirt & handbag – real ladies again. In a few days I’ll probably get tired of only having one basin with cold water for about 40 people – can you imagine the shambles in the morning! – but meanwhile I’m not too smelly yet. We’re only allowed to stay in the hostel 3 nights in a week, so I don’t know what we’ll do after Saturday, we’ve booked for the Tattoo on Monday so we’ll have to be here then!
Back to diary
Wed 27th Up 7.30 (ringing bell) Breakfast of bread & cheese & warden made us cup of tea. No rain again, lift from hostel into town, another right up to Stoke on Trent (one of the” Potteries”) A clump of very ugly towns where Dalton etc come from. Went into Mintons but couldn’t see around factory unfortunately. Long interesting chat to manager though. A long walk through town as Elysine? [I cant even remember my travelling companion’s name correctly hence various versions of it] insisted on going up the wrong road. She’s completely impossible, but I now let her have her way in not very important things, but if there’s anything I want to do, I go ahead so I’m having a lovely time in spite of her endless mutterings (I can’t hear most of what she says) and the strain of the fights which are regular – in fact almost every corner we argue about which way to go – I just carry on now and ignore her. She’s an extremely disturbed and unapproachable person, so I simply ignore her as much as possible most of the time.
From the Potteries up North carefully avoiding Manchester and Birmingham. E wanted to see Blackpool so we detoured. What a ghastly place – holidaymakers sitting in rows of concrete seats along the sea staring glumly into space, others sitting on deck chairs in the mud of the so called beach – at least it’s sandy! Illuminations very good I believe but we got out at about 5.
{3.0 pm sitting in theatre waiting for films to start – shorts from all countries – Holland, USSR, USA etc}
After trailing around for what seemed like hours. Anyway I bought and ate some fresh shrimps – lovely – Caught bus out of town and waited for lift. Of course as a side road had to wait but eventually got one on back of truck and then in front to Lomeasten? where we phoned the warden at Kendal to see if we could get in. Lake hostels very full, but this one away a bit from the lakes, at the entrance was OK. Lift on truck right to gate, arriving 7.10 (supper 7.15!) Lovely big old house in green lawns, hot water (I had a bath standing up) and did washing. Lots of young kids again, but about 40 in hostel. Lots Germans – chatted with English chap. After supper I wandered down into town & had a look at Parish Church. Very old, but as inside spookily dark couldn’t see much. Stained glass not very effective either as getting dark outside. Bought some Kendal mint cake – a world famous apparently peppermint sweet. According to the wrapper was taken to top of Everest by Hillary & Tensing as very full of goodness. Walked back across stream to hostel (plus minus half mile). Write letters & to bed. Still no rain! Will continue Thursday later. Lovely country again with grey stone houses instead of red. Much love,
…………………………………………………………………………………………………….
4.15pm
1 Sep 1958
Edinburgh
Mrs & Mrs AL Povall,
11 Castle Blaney
Leyds Street, Joubert Park, Johannesburg, South Africa
From: M Povall, 59 Warwick Rd, London SW5
Sun 7pm Sitting on pavement queuing for concert
Hallo, Another attempt to catch up on new. Tonight is Royal Danish Orchestra & Choir giving Hayden’s creation, so here I sit (at least pavement queuing is a novelty!) Am feeling tired every day. To bed 11.30ish, to sleep 12’ish, awake 7ish, very restless night on a hard hostel beds is not conducive to energy making, but I’m enjoying every moment. Don’t even feel bad about no bath since Monday, although when my eyes alighted on a bath in the cloakroom of a hotel today, I must say I was tempted. My nose a bit blocked, but I don’t think I smell yet. I have a lick & a promise with cold water every few days. Never thought I’d sleep on a rock, but today I curled up & slept soundly for quarter of an hour down at the Forth Bridge on a most uncomfortable rock – you would have thought it was a feather bed.
We leave here, we think, on Wednesday for a quick look round the Lochs & to Braemar on Thursday, back, we hope, here on Thursday eve. Leaving for London on Friday as traffic not good on Sunday. I live in Peggys terylene shirt (hitched up at waist with pin, green stripe & blue blouse (both unironed) & alternate between sandals, flat shoes, heels, with my raincoat an ever present and wonderfully useful companion. No rain since Tuesday! Too amazing! Unfortunately Stuart’s [my only relatives in UK] leave for holiday tomorrow but with luck we’ll see them on the station tomorrow morning for an hour – such a sweet note from Mrs Stuart.
Enough rambling! Let me catch up on diary a bit. I think I’d got us to Kendal.
Thurs 28th:
Woke and left to rain, but it stopped half minute after we left. Got a lift in a van with 3 chaps (architects I think) who drove us right round about 6 lakes (Windermere, Thurlemere, Burserthwaite? are a few I remember) right the way to Keswick standing us coffee on the way. Can’t get much idea from car though. Will have to return & walk round a bit. Had a few hours in Keswick wandering round – very sweet market town with hikers, rucksacks etc. Brightened while we were there, the sun shone vaguely. Pity it wasn’t earlier . Another lift in van to Carlisle with commercial traveller. From Carlisle with very jolly Scots truck driver through Gretna Green into Scotland. 1st glimpse of heather (just beginning). Very different from England. Thinner populated & didn’t like it as much, I like England’s frequent houses & villages. Dumped rather out in bundu, but by series of short lifts in cars, the last one with a chap from Kenya who took us right to ticket office, we arrive in Edinburgh about 5.30ish.
All tickets of any reasonable prices for everything were pretty booked out, but we made straight for hostel (temporary – club converted – primitive but a bed & water & lav) cleaned up a bit/changed out of slacks into shirt & stockings!!! And into town. Found could get seats on stairs for Philharmonic under Ansermet playing Beethoven, Bartok & Debussy. Mad rush to get food across road, & dived in as Queen being played. What a wonderful concert! – when the violins played softly & fast, one couldn’t believe more than one was playing. Really inspiring & worth 6/-. E getting on my nerves & inclined to mutter through concert, but I ignored her & forgot she was there. Back to hostel, bed, washing & sleep. A good birthday for Mother!
Fri 29th: Met 2 SA girls from Nelspruit. One lived next door to where Bunty worked. Small world! Heaps of USA girls at hostel. Warden is a student from Malaya. Impossible chap – unhelpful, threw weight around, absolutely no idea how to control people. Sat night nearly kicked 2 girls out into streets at 12.30 because of some petty thing for which they weren’t even responsible. Screamed & shouted & ranted & raved. What a performance!
Wandered round town a bit making enquiries about possibilities etc and saw quite a bit as we went. Very different from London – hardly a big city really. In afternoon I went to a series of cartoons – almost 12 from USA, UK, Poland, Holland, France – everywhere in fact. Some puppets, some? – really excellent. In evening to TS Eliot’s new play “Elder Statesman”. Stood right at back upstairs. Very hot and stuffy. Can’t make up my mind about the play. Need to read it to get full meaning. Came out feeling a little dissatisfied. More later!
Edinburgh
7pm
2 Sept
1958
To Parents, Joubert Park, SA
Mon morn Sitting on steps of Nat.Gallery waiting for Eloise?
Hello again,
Have just seen the Stuarts at the station for an hour. They’re too sweet. Mr as big as Mrs is small. He seems a real card. They’re off to Harrogate to her sister for a week, & then to Scarborough for cricket festival for a week. She insists on my coming to stay (for a long time!) and wants Peg & me to go up for Xmas. Might be rather nice. She says she’ll be writing to you.
Am I tired! Got up this morning with a head like a hangover. But once I get going I feel better. Today is dull & coldish but still not rain (a week now – I feel parched) People here say this weather’s bad, to me its heaven – after London weather. Just got letter from P & E – what a lovely and most unexpected surprise.
I think I’d got it Saturday!
Saturday 30th Asked warden if we could stay another night, but no. After last night he had to get his own back somehow although he’s not full up. Packed our bags & off to the main office to complain – felt no-one else would. Were (I’ve just had heart failure. Most ghastly bang! It’s the gun from the Castle. It’s at 1.0 every day, but I’m still trying to get my breathe back & stop shaking. I’ve obviously never been near before) told we could get into other hostel rather far out of town so dumped bags at station and off to the ballet for the afternoon. Specially commissioned for Festival, so very modern which I like. Most of them very good. International Company assembled for the occasion – well-known but no names except SA’s David Poole.
Back to station to collect stuff, out to hostel to clean up & make bed & back to town accompanied by a Scot in a kilt by the name of Angus who had hitched to the festival for one day. He’s a school teacher & a real character. I wanted to try & get into Old Vic (12th Night) but it was too late, so queued for concert by Royal Danish Orchestra under Solti with Kentner as soloist playing Beethhoven 3rd. Got standing room along wall at side (sat when got tired) very nice concert but not as inspiring, I found, as the Philharmonia. Beautiful evening – hostel a bit in the country (overlooks golf links) & gorgeous moon & cloudy. Angus bought us each a packet of crisps! Collapsed into bed for another restless night tossing & turning in common with almost 30 others in the dorm!
Sun 31st Woken soon after 7.0 as usual & away at 9.30 after doing chores. Waited ages for bus as services start late Sundays. Decided to take bus down to Queens ferry where the Forth Bridge is. About half an hour out of town. Inn just under the bridge built 1683 (mentioned in ‘Kidnapped’) & the book was actually started there. Wandered round a bit & watched cars queuing for ages to go across by Ferry (the bridge is rail only). They started work Monday (today) on a road bridge there because of holdups. Seagulls crying – very nice. Tide obviously low. Sat on rock & curled up and went to sleep. Waited ages for bus to get back to town & then had to stand, so saw no scenery!
Tuesday, sitting in Festival office while Eloise/Elaine? shops
Left last Thursday & still no rain! Today rather muggy & sticky. Friday was certainly the best day (I seem to be lucky with my first day in places). Peggy’s friend Edith Landen took us driving but was very hazy which was a pity – back to diary!
I went to recital by University Singers while E went with SA girl who picked us up to recital by Menuhim & Kentner (did I tell you they were married sisters, so often play together – Ann & Peggy have heard them through the windows! – Kentner lived in a flat in the same building as Peggy in Old Church St Chelsea) This girl was arts student from PMB University – typical spoilt SA who said “we simply must come and see her in London – she’s love to do something with us but unfortunately had a date the next afternoon. (Probably with a great aunt!) We got rid of her thank heavens afterwards.
My recital was unaccompanied – a lot of Mediaeval stuff. Beautifully sung. Got seat!!! Round side behind pillars so I couldn’t really see, but I moved at interval to the centre.
We wandered round a bit then went to queue for Haydon’s “Creation” by Royal Danish Church & Chapel Choir. Just missed seats on stairs (were 1st to have to stand – maddening). Very near front, round side of hall which is circular (cont)
Choir largely made up of little boys . Too cute. Some of them positively teensy. By sitting on floor could just see conductor & choir, but not soloists, which was ideal as I couldn’t bear watching them – 2 pompous fat young men, and a woman with a hard face – but their singing was wonderful. Crawled home to another bad night! Heaps of Yanks at hostel. They’re obviously adore Festivals or Scotland or something. I think they buy their tartans, and go back home contented.
Monday 1st Had a quick look round SU? Girls before 3 coach parties invaded with church with their guides . Afterwards to Waverley Station to meet the Stuarts. Terrified I’d miss them as I mistrust British stations but by running from platform to platform as the trains arrived I found them & luckily recognised Mrs S. Had coffee with them & saw them onto train. Found place for lunch – 3 course lunch for 2/6. Had haggis. Not in a bag & rather ordinary but quite tasty. Caused much amusement to 2 men at a table. After that to the Moltzau Collection (a private collection of modern art from Cezanne to Picasso). Magnificent. Brought from Norway specially for festival. Some of the originals of paintings I’ve seen were too magnificent. Was dying to go back again another day. Couldn’t take my eyes off some of the moderns. After that to a huge exhibition of Byzantine art – the 1st ever assembled in Britain. Only got half round after hours and hours of following very full catalogue etc. It’s coming to Victoria & Albert next month so will continue there.
Wed evening at hostel at Birnam & Dunkeld
Listening to lad telling us in very broad Scots that he has 11 brothers & 2 sisters & rattling off all their names! For about five minutes he tried to tell us about something called a water bail. It turned out to be a BIKE!!! Theres hot water here & I ‘ve done some washing and will carry kettles through to have a good wash. If only I had shampoo here my hair is driving me mad and is packed with dandruff. I’m sure Prince Philip won’t like me to look like this! Wonder if we’ll get up to or into Braemar tomorrow. We’re plus minus 50 miles away, but traffic not too good. Will have to try and make an early start.
Diary (cont)
Also went to small exhibition of 12 well known potters –lovely stuff. Heaps of exhibitions on (dolls, musical instruments, arm medals etc etc) and also plays, concerts, films etc. Therese are the Fringe events, some very good indeed, and many Scottish flavoured – dances, plays, films, crafts etc
In the evening to the Tattoo at 9pm. I hope I sent a card of it. Stands erected in courtyard at Entrance to Castle. Very impressive floodlighting of castle and flags and searchlights on the performers. US Marines performing for 1st time. One of many regiments – Scots guards, Gurkhas, Black Watch etc etc. Much marching & countermarching & a little highland dancing and a musical ride by two mounted regiments. 5/- seats right in front row, so deafened by trumpets and bagpipes and at times afraid horses might lift up their tails and mess on our laps! Also missed full spectacle & general impression gained from above but very interesting. Got very cold though. Most people had rugs etc We just froze. Home to a really good night’s sleep – dead to world from about 12-7. Still tired but not quite so bad! One eye getting bleary though!
Tues 2nd: Went to recital at 11.0 by Cassado (famous cellist) and Henderson (pianist). Very short. Over by 12.30. Lovely but crooks – 5/- + for programme for 2 sonatas and a sample of piano pieces. Met a friend of Pegs afterwards – Edith Landen. A young girl who is in advertising dept of a newspaper, very musical, has a car, & generally???
Love, M
{SEEMS TO BE LETTER CONTINUED – POSTMARKED PERTH THOUGH AND 10AM, 5 Sept 1958
seems to spend life rushing around. I’d phoned her the day before and she offered to show us round. She wanted to take us to late night shows etc, but we couldn’t of course because of being in soon after 11.0. She eventually spotted me, & took us to a little place where she stood us lunch, then to Festival Club for coffee. It’s very smart. You join for a day, week, or the Festival & you get guest tickets. After our hostel existence we were frankly overawed by banks of flowers, glass chandeliers, sofa chairs etc. Felt very scruffy in pinned shirt, unironed blouse etc but at least we had on stockings and heels. Television is in the diningroom at lunchtime interviewing people so we stood at the door and watched. She pointed out several producers, artists etc. They have dances every night there & after the shows all the performers etc go there. Was dying to go back later.
Then she took us for drive round town telling us history, showing us odd corners etc. Fascinating. Took us into Varsity & gorgeous library hall & then drove right out of town past Holyrood up Arthurs Seat (the hill outside with sheep grazing there) and a wonderful view of the city. Unfortunately it was a little hazy so we couldn’t see too much. The tour was very rushed (met her 12.30 – had lunch, coffee & tour & finished by 3.0).
We were going to a Swedish film but were too late, so had a look at anti H-bomb exhibition (put on by enthusiastic women who grabbed us and tried to sell us pamphlets!) We tried for Stuttgart Opera but no luck. Queued for Schillers “Mary Stuart” put on by Old Vic, but apparently should have got tickets for unreserved seats, so gave up, and went instead to 2 very modern plays put on by Oxford Arena Theatre (amateur student group). Both translations from French and Spanish. 1st English performance. Small room in the round. We sat on benches round, Experiments not entirely successful but I thoroughly enjoyed them. I think you would have died of horror. Still no rain, although its hazy & hot.
Wed 3rd
Left hostel 9.30 for Lochs & Braemar
Thurs lunchtime at Braemar
Sitting on one of few mounds round centre arena. Arrived here before 11am by lift with American. Lovely part of country. Valley surrounded by hills all round – big W here apparently. Absolutely gorgeous day – blue sky, clear, sunshiney. Just sitting in the sun is lovely. There are some stands, booked up well in advance for 10/-, and then crowds pour into ground for 3/-. We’re getting rather crowded out here – earlier could stretch out on mac & just enjoy the sun. Rather far from field & ring with dancing on is on the other side, but we’ve seen them putting the ball, throwing the weight, tossing the caber, pulling the heavystone etc. Also right behind us are the bagpipe competitions. Have you ever sat a few feet away from a man (or men) playing bagpipes solidly for hours and hours and hours, so that even when the massed bands are in the arena the bagpipe still comes out louder. The Royal Family we think, arrive 2ish (it’s now 1.30). They have their own little house. Almost opposite us, so we’ll see them but from quite a distance! They’re throwing the hammer at the moment. We got Passouts & went into Braemar Village to draw more money. The place was overrun, as you can imagine, with every shop selling tweeds, postcards, tartans etc. As in all these tourist places. There’s a visitors book you go & sign, and if you see the name of someone you know you can go and get a message broadcast to meet them. Lots of Yanks as ever. In glorious country – very wild. Miles with no building at all – rather SA in this way. Green hills beginning to be covered I with heather (some quite thick) – still haven’t picked any yet, as always drive past, but there is a little around the grounds here & in the car park. Streams all over coming down the hills, and the road winding up & down sometimes quite sharply, as at the Devils Elbow. Such a stream of traffic all the way up – buses and buses & buses. Sheep grazing all round rather confused when they decided to cross the road as they normally can, I suppose, three quarter days of the year, without interference.
Thu eve at Perth hostel
If the Stuarts had been here we would have had soft beds & hot baths. Oh well! What a small world. Did I mention I’d met two girls from Nelspruit in Edinburgh who knew Andre & Bunty. Well now I’ve met here a great friend Jill Mills (married, 3 kids). She flew TREK via Entebbe, Wadi Halfa (had a dreadful experience with District Commissioner, Hotel manager & Customs officer in desert!!! So they are as dangerous as we thought!!) & Nice. Before she left a few weeks ago Andre told her to look out for me. She’s been to Braemar & stayed at same hostel with dreadful Malaga warden in Edinburgh. (He said to them “Hey you 2 South Africans, which one is Mills?” She returns to London on Monday to leave for the continent on Wednesday – pity I didn’t meet her earlier – would have liked to have hitched with her. But it is a small world.
BACK IN LONDON – september
Friday morning we left Perth & got through to Edinburgh in the afternoon, and down to below Berwick on Tweed to a hostel there for night. Saturday didn’t get on very quickly – lots of lifts, not too long and I was getting worried about getting back. Then from just outside Durham we got a lift in a car with a chap right through to London travelling very fast. Wonderful. We stood the coffee, cakes etc. Home 8.30ish and met Kenny (from Jhb) in Club (arrived that morning) – bathed, washed hair etc – to bed 3.45 Up Sunday 9.45 then to Farnborough with Kenny and another chap. Very exciting, but am still trying to wash clothes, get organised etc. Tonight to Prom with Peg & Tom Ross, tomorrow with Shirl to concert so no rest at all.
Many thanks for letters – lovely long one & yesterday the snaps arrived – just too gorgeous. Haven’t seen Pegs yet. Dying to. The children look just too sweet. I miss them so much when I saw the photos. Will write again more fully as soon as I can – much love, M