Between Juba and Khartoum

Tues 9.30am Between Juba and Khartoum

Dear Mom,

After a nightmarish start this morning at 2.45 – I’m now feeling human again. Actually it was 1.45 by Sudanese time which is the same as Union time.

So we’ve been flying already today for 5 and a half hours. Have seen very little as at first it was dark, then hazy and cloudy. It’s been very smooth till now. It’s vaguely bumpy but nothing to ????? even really. Dense cloud below us now, so can’t see a thing, but generally the country side seems very flat but very green. Resembles bushveld with shrubs, but certainly not in greenness.

Passed over Juba, but didn’t notice much, as was only waking up. Airfield out in bundu. Just refuelled there and had tea, were given breakfast when back on plane. Had cold meal, egg, tomato, roll, banana, coffee.

Went to bed 12.30 (put it back an hour for equivalent of Sudanese time) last night and were woken at 2.45, given tea, packed into buses and sent to Entebbe where we sat around till 5.15. Once in the plane we all collapsed & slept till Juba at 7.0

I slept rather spasmodically, as I coughed & coughed and coughed.

In the bus on the way to Entebbe I was supported, and more or less carried, as I felt rather like a corpse which was trying to be brought to life. It would have been better had I not slept at all, rather than have the 2 hours, and then have to stagger out. I haven’t really had much more sleep, but feel now only tired, not capsized.

Last night about 8 of us went down to the so-called nightclub – an open air dance floor etc. Having only finished dinner 9’ish, it was very late by the time I’d finished watching & playing the slot machines – one chap was winning a lot, and my gambling instincts wouldn’t let me leave. After packing and sorting out it was 12.30.

Yesterday 21 of us went by cars to Entebbe – had tea at Lake Victoria Hotel. Lovely – green golf course stretching down miles to water. Drove through Botanical Gardens and down to lake quay. Boy fishing at the end, went out along perilous plank to see what he was catching – turned out 2 be 2 only sardine sized fish. What an anti-climax. Lovely boats around there – apparently a boating club. Couldn’t go out in one though. Back then to Kampala to see the sights there.

(Needless to say, our car ran out of petrol on the way back to Entebbe – luckily not far from a petrol pump! – but once again we were late)

In Kampala went to see Catholic Cathedral on slope of a hill. Huge place – built probably more for prestige value than practicality. English cathedral & Mosque both on tops of other hills, so R.C. had to too. There saw a very odd couple – She in long shorts, long socks and with long straight blonde hair, he with long long curly hair, beard and moustache. Are going through Africa/from London) in a taxi. Broke down in Kampala that morning /we saw their conveyance in the main street, was causing a traffic jam, and certainly looked decrepit. However they were going to fix it and carry on.

Drove past Govt. house with endless varieties of shrubs in every colour, and the residence of the Kabaka of Buganda, of which we saw mostly wall only.

Didn’t see Makerere College, Eup cathedral (CHECK)etc. Trip cost 12/6 each and was terrific.

Kampala is fantastically green & lush. I think we are all particularly struck by it, coming from our dry winter. But I’m sure the people must occasionally long for dryness. Wherever you go you see hordes of grass cutters – they obviously have to work full time to control the growth. Weather was overcast most of the day, but warm. Last night put a jersey on – the local inhabitants all apologised for the cold.

Live in slacks and blouse – only change into dress at night.

Due at Khartoum in just over an hour, but only for refuelling apparently. Will lunch on plane. Night stop at Wadi Halfa. Should be there teatimeish. Tomorrow night perhaps at Malta which will be wonderful.

Yesterday was off food rather – generally a little upset, but today feel fine, except for landings which are nightmarish because of my ears. In spite of cotton wool and blowing nose etc, I have ghastly earache as soon as we start dropping. I don’t have to look out to see – I just feel. They clear up usually just before taking off again, but taking off is OK. Just around Juba saw lots of rivers a river – I suppose the Nile. Very wet around there generally. Kampala is fantastically damp, although one is not aware of it. Nylon undies don’t dry in 8 hours, in spite of warmth. This morning got into damp undies, because I’d washed them, being sure they would dry in time. At the slot machines last night were a couple – spending and losing pounds. They sit & drink & play shillings, every evening – apparently nothing else to do. Came from England 3 years ago, and are now obsessed with the machines. It’s too terrible to watch them. Occasionally they win a few pounds, but their losing must be fantastic.

We seem to be dropping a bit – obviously are landing soonish – my watch must be an hour early. Let me grab cottonwool.

Clouds clearing a bit & can see below to flat, flat country, quite green but not as lush as earlier.

Men in Kampala & Sudan all wear nighties, sometimes with sashes, sometimes not. Women in Uganda all wear identical style dress – square neck, 2 buttons on left side, puffed sleeves, and rest draped around. Most materials have slight border around front, and tie is sash at front. Some of them look terrific with contrasting sashes etc. I wonder if they all buy them, because there is never any variation in style.

May post this at Khartoum if have a chance to cash a cheque, otherwise later. We’re dropping – how terrible. Flight today wonderfully smooth.

Please pass this on to Joburg.

Much love to you – and all others.

Margery

We didn’t land when I thought – obviously dropped a bit – generally keep at 9000 ft. Country changed in last 20 mins from vaguely green flatness, rather like Highveld, to dry lands, and sometimes in the distance some sign of green, but generally a dull yellow, drawn across with lines of brown (tracks on roads?). An occasional cluster of what looks like ants/obviously a village, with around the village some lands – brown squares cut out of the flatness. We can see amazingly far, as the clouds are clearing. It’s obviously not dead flat, but from out height hills and small rises are not discernible.

Some distance away can see what might be a few dams, with possibly water in. There’s a very distinct line over on the right – perhaps a main road, if such things exist, on the edge of a river?

Huge cloud of smoke? Also. Veld fire? Stretches for miles.

At times for a few miles there’s a type of green, then dry again. No fields now. Obviously too dry. Looks as though it could be just sand here with occasional scrub. Oh! The line was the river! We’re now approaching it. From here it looks shallow & sandy, with sand banks in it but obviously isn’t because now I can see a boat on it (largeish) and the sandbanks are of a considerable size.

Can see the extent of the width when full by dirty grey sand, with outside vaguely reddish. We’re crossing it now. How muddy it looks, and pretty low. It’s a dirty grey, with no sign of movement. Land around it now a pretty, pinky colour, with small river beds all over, lined with shrubs of a sort. We’re flying above it now but I can’t make out where the water is. It’s very broad but seems only mud to me. Lots of side river beds, but no villages that I can make out. Perhaps it floods right over the whole area.

We’re dropping as my ears giving me hell. Must really be nearing Khartoum now.

Funny little (probably big) hill sticking out sharply now. Not a cloud. Ground still pinkish. Very attractive. /

12.15

Left Wadi Seidna +_ 15 min ago.

Runway at Khartoum being repaired so came there +_ 20 miles away. Can hardly breathe it’s so hot. Have just removed my slacks & put on summer shirt – no petti, Zip undone, blouse up on my midriff, sandals off, hair high up in pig tails. Have got one air vent working at last & can now survive although still sweating. +- 10 mins before landing we all started sweating, as the air got hotter & hotter. Little air vent above each seat.

Very hazy now. Will have lunch any minute. Land 2 and a half hours in Wadi Halfa. Even hotter there apparently. Have taken pill as in this heat will certainly bump when going lower, if not before. Take off very bumpy, but fine now. Airport practically on Nile, but only see flatness from ‘drome. Had beer shandy there. Sleeping bags, slippers, camel stools etc all exorbitant prices.

Here comes lunch – usual cold meat & salads I expect.

Passes over what must have been Khartoum. Fantastic area of buildings – for miles & miles on either side of the plane & river.

All rectangles – buildings, plots etc No sign of double storey ones though Just mud huts mainly. Perhaps we passed directly over these & so missed them.

11.0pm

Off to bed till 2.45 – leave hotel at 3.45 & take off at 4.30. We hope for Malta tomorrow night.

Must post this as I have a stamp. So more about Wadi Halfa and Sudanese men later. Quite a day!

Much love, Margery

At Wadi Halfa we stopped on the runway next to the Comet IV. What a contrast! Ian Scott, (I forgot to tell Ben & Pete he was on the plane – Wanderers type) recognised “Cats Eyes” Cunningham, so we stopped & had a chat about the Comet V, and he posed for a photo for Ian in front of the plane. They were doing tests – had come from Khartoum & were on their way back there & then to Nairobi. We all sat & panted in the waiting room together.

As it’s still clouded over, I’ll write a bit about Wadi Halfa.

Dreadful landing – my ears both aching with absolutely no relief, in spite of constant swallowing. Then my nose started aching – blocked completely. By the time we landed I was convinced my head had burst. During all this Li, sitting next to me, developed violent cramps, and I was trying to support her, when I just wanted to collapse myself. Yelled to Rudy , who undid safety belt & got up to get hostess. Once landed I recovered and Li has taken straight to the hotel where the doctor was supposed to be waiting. Being the Sudan of course, he came plus minus 3 hours later, said he would return in half an hour with an injection, and was next seen at about 8.0 that evening.

The heat! Had to show passports etc, and go through customs etc. 1^st time anywhere. All this after sitting panting in the waiting room with Cunningham for ages. Customs didn’t open bags, but asked us each time what was in them – as though we’d say hashish!

Then in rattling bus to the hotel which had only sign of greenery in the area – a few palm trees. It is huge, with annexures everywhere, one of them being a big boat on the river. Each room had huge fan on ceiling going continuously, and was therefore bearable. No hot water in the place – not necessary. Into a bath with a sigh of relief. I was red like a tomato & pouring sweat – can you imagine how you would fare?

Beer shandy & then supper. The 2 managers, Sudanese, asked every female around the place if they would have a drink afterwards and by the evening everyone was in a flat panic & terrified of these men. I thought it terribly funny. At the airport, too,

The officials were very, very friendly to some & offered to show them the town.

As all the men do it, they obviously have success, and I expect it is only S.Africans who aren’t cooperative.

They march into your rooms at any odd time, to see if you’re OK etc, and bad luck if you’ve got nothing on. That night we all slept well locked in. Some locked doors & shutters, but I just trusted that the shutters would hold.

After dinner I went, much to everyone’s fears, with another couple, out with the District Commissioner, who had sat in the lounge all afternoon, “undressing” us, as someone said later. Anyway I wanted to see the town & felt quite safe with 3 of us, one a man. He took us driving all round town in his car, with its flag flying in front. Most interesting. Not a typically Sudanese town though, he said, as only 30 miles from border & very Egyptian. No women to be seen anywhere – no wonder we were such an attraction.

We then went to his house, the 1^st DC’s house in the Sudan – Kitchener ruled from there for some time. He lives there alone & showed us his garden – roses & fruit

Then sat on the terrace drinking Dutch cherry brandy. He gave me a huge glassful, which I poured gradually onto the sand of the terrace, and later rubbed in my foot. The terrace had the Nile lapping far below it. Very interesting evening – He told us all about himself, the Sudan etc. He’s very unpopular with the Egyptians, so if friendly relations are resumed, will obviously be removed & won’t mind at all as the district is bad, and nothing really can be done. Was down South before and achieved quite a lot there. Had been Wadi Halfa for 17 months. Was at London University for a time having a course in local government. Intelligent and aware of limitations and troubles ahead with uneducated people having power. 2 cannons at gate of house – relics of Kitchener’s time.

When we left he gave us a huge mango each – about 3 times size of a large mango usually.

Back at the hotel, I excused myself and to my room. After a time there was a tap at the door & in he marched, grabbed Li’s hand and asked how she was etc, and then said “You will come for a drink with me just now, yes”.

I murmured something about going to bed, and he left, luckily Li was there, even if fast asleep. I had a hurried bath, lay down on the bed (no covering) & switched off light. Few minutes later a couple of insistent knocks at the door, and I lay in bed and giggled, because by this stage I’d locked the shutters.

Very disturbed 3 hours sleep and woke feeling ghastly.

My cold is better now – throat only vaguely sore, & cough not so often, but hayfever started. Yesterday was bad, today better. Perhaps after a few days sleeps I’ll be OK again.

This trip has certainly been a test of endurance. Some haven’t been to bed for days. Many have swollen feet and legs from the heat, so that they have to slop around in huge Indian sandals. The air hostess has a couple of ghastly bites which have blistered. But it’s been a unique experience & we’ve survived remarkable well – the baby best of all, I think. He is very good & endlessly happy & energetic.

It was a joy to get to Malta, away from Sudanese and Egyptian nonsense. Although no real trouble, they are over officious & demand passports, yellow fever etc etc which no one else ever worries about. They apparently didn’t even notice at M  that my passport wasn’t endorsed for Egypt, in spite of silly haggling over little details that held us up for 10 minutes or so. And the cloakrooms etc are so filthy. Malta (Luqa) Airport was so clean & modern in comparison, but Nice is really in the luxury class.

The clouds are getting thicker & thicker, with no break, so we obviously aren’t going to see Paris at all. I don’t think I’d better move out of London because wherever I go I just want to spend money and at this rate I’ll soon be broke. If things are cheap then the temptation is irresistible. Almost ended up buying dresses & Hoover cleaners in Malta.

Will end this when we land, which with luck should be in 2 hours. It’s remarkable cold now – perhaps we are flying high. PTO

1958
Malta